Engine Assembly – At Last!

Finally started the engine rebuild, the clean newly painted crankcases had all the ncessary new bearings fitted (remembering to remove seals where necessary) , gearbox installed, crank installed. I just followed the workshop manual plus all new stainless bolts.

All the gearbox selector springs and small pins were replaced. To deal with the neutral light switch bolt issues, I used some small aluminium spacers and schnorr washers (google it!) plus loctite.

I’d also bought a new cylinder and piston, at this stage I realised the silver paint on the cylinder didn’t match the silver I’d painted the crankcases. I prepped the cylinder and repainted in the contrasting cast iron colour I’m using on other parts. I think I gives the engine some dimension rather than it all being silver, which I’m pretty sure is done only to keep costs down.

I bought a set of stainless engine bolts only to find it didn’t include the ones that hold the crankcases together, so I bought those from eBay. Simple diagram showing sizes in gallery.

You have to temporarily fit the rotor to assist with tightening the nut on the primary gear. Doing that on the bench is very difficult as it requires 100Nm and is left hand thread, enjoy!

Cylinder Head

I’d previously blasted and painted the cylinder head, so time for valve lapping and new valve seals then assembly plus new stainless studs and dome nuts, so I don’t have all the problems I did when taking the engine apart.

Gallery shows before and after lapping valve.

Gearbox Rebuild – 3

Final gearbox parts have arrived, so reassembled the gearbox this morning. Pretty straight forward just follow the manual, only things to watch out for is the countershaft 5th gear spacer has an oil hole so I marked it with a sharpie to check alignment on the shaft and the circlips have to be assembled with the sharp edge facing the correct direction, both detailed in the manual.

Fitting 2nd gear back on the shaft required the press again, I gently heated the gear with a hot air gun then tapped it on to ensure it was straight then pressed it the rest of the way using an old socket. The manual says to use loctite, wtf, its so tight loctite would just be pushed out of the way, so didn’t bother with that step.


Moved onto cleaning the carbs. They were in a state and required extensive cleaning plus standard o-ring, gasket replacements plus stainless bolts. Vacuum system had previously been removed so I bought the proper Suzuki blanks to cover the outlets.

I don’t have a ultrasonic cleaner, so I just use degreasant and elbow grease plus a pure brass wire brush. I also managed to get a new choke linkage on eBay at a bargain price.

Have a few stainless screws on order to finish the rebuild.

Gearbox Rebuild – 2

Well went to my friend’s bike shop and we couldn’t get the gear off with a massive puller and considerable heat. So I decided to try and source a new countershaft and rebuild that gearset completely.

Have managed to find parts at good prices. but am not going to let this gear get the best of me and have now managed to get it off.

How you may ask?

6 ton hydraulic press!
whomp there it is!

Gearbox Rebuild

Started rebuilding the gearbox with new 3rd and 5th gearsets. I’m doing those because 3rd is the normal weak point and my gears were outside tolerance and on the original engine 5th let go destroying it, prior to my ownership I should say, 5th was also outside tolerance.

Driveshaft rebuild is pretty straight forward, I’m also replacing all bushes, washers and circlips. The only thing to be aware of is there are two washers that fit together with offset splines, so they act as a basically circlip but thicker to take up slack.

To fit these you must push the circlip on the other side of 3rd gear further down the shaft so that you can locate the two interlocking washers first then slide the gear back and fit the circlip into its groove.

You also need to be aware of this for disassembly, otherwise there’s no way you’ll get it apart. Shown in the first gallery picture, 1 and 2 interlock and 3 needs moving in the direction of the arrow, past its locating groove then brought back.

Countershaft has caused a stopping point at the mo due to 2nd gear being pressed on. My gear puller wasn’t up to the job. So will call in another favour and borrow one.


Engine Bearings

The bearings are a little strange in this engine, as some are dual sealed bearings with one seal removed. Caught me out as I measured the bearings in the cases and then ordered them, only to find on removal there was a seal on the back face of three of them.

You can spot them in the photos as the bearings have an extra shoulder visable where the seal would normally sit. The 3rd bearing with seal on the back is the gearbox output shaft bearing.

and this is what happens if you don’t maintain your engine/oil levels…..

5th gear had let go on the original engine, so I’m replacing both 5th and 3rd (usual gearbox issue) gearsets. They were also under tolerance when measured.

All bearings are being replaced because –

  • A – you should
  • B – check video below

Crankcase Repair

Crank case has now been welded and after an hour or so with a Dremel and some files is nearly finished.

I used a sharpie to emulate engineer’s blue, makes it much easier to see what you’re removing. I levelled the weld to the crank case by filing and sanding across the case to spread the load and keep things level.

Engine Rebuild

Started work on the engine rebuild and hit a, temporary, brickwall as I’d forgotten about the snapped off bolt in the crankcase.

Tried penetrating oil, eze outs, left-hand drill, heat, nothing would shift it. Had to drill through the side of the case to get to it. Its now off with a friend to be tig welded, so that I can redrill and tap the hole.

Looking closely at the case the bolt hole has a small hole at the back which would let moisture in, so I’d recommended ensuring that the bolt in that hole has copper slip or similar on it.

Decided to do the crank bearing, as I’d borrowed the Suzuki tool to remove the bearing. Pretty straight forward job using tool and air gun, you could potentially make a tool out of a large socket and dremel out the shape required. I used the old bearing as a drift to fit the new one.

I also removed all the old bearings from the crankcases, using a bearing puller and a blow torch. In a few cases its easier to use the puller as a pusher.

There’s one unique bearing that has a rolled pin fitted, everything else you can get from a bearing supplier, but that one is dealer only and ridiculously expensive.

Some of the bearings also have a seal only on one side, so you have to buy sealed bearings and remove one seal, I’ll detail all the bearings when I get to fitting them.

I’ve used Koyo bearings throughout.

Removing Crank Nut

Hold up!

The above picture was me practicing on the wrecked original engine, just realised on the actual engine, that I’m using, when I split the crankcases the bearing came out with the crank without me having to remove the nut. Stupidly I’ve assembled the bearing and nut onto the crank already, when the bearing should be pressed into the case and the crank pulled into it.

Will disassembled and do it right.

Moral of this story – RTFM! ( read the f….. manual ) – sigh!

Rolling Chassis – 2

  • Fitted fork guards – factory ones were CR, so I bought ufo CR and they foul on the wheel as the CCM front wheel is offset to the right.
    • Dremel’d side off guard and fits fine
    • will buy some ktm ones to try
    • used ktm fork guard bolts
  • front master cylinder was very damaged, couldn’t find a replacement ccm one, turns out same MC is fitted to a yamaha yzf r125, just make sure you get the brembo one plus a m10 x 1 to m10 x 1.25 adapter
    • blasted MC lid and lever to match cleaned up clutch lever
  • factory foot pegs bolt on, bought some ktm pins and springs to try
    • pins too long, will trim and redrill split pin holes – pins are hardened so unable to  drill, will find shorter alternative
    • drill foot rest mounts and foot rests with 10mm drill – very carefully!
  • ordered parts to start on custom wiring loom
  • photoshop’d ccm loom diagram to give full length view, working on colour wiring diagram that I’ll check during loom build

Rolling Chassis

I’m currently getting the rolling chassis completed, as I have a small man-shed and there are currently parts everywhere.

So far –

  • frame and subframe have been cleaned, blasted and resprayed satin black
  • welded up the side stand hole and redrilled it, blasted then painted satin black
  • swinging arm cleaned, blasted and new bearings fitted
    • stock is single bearing and o-rings which is crap, I fitted 2 sealed bearings each side plus an extra seal on the exposed side
  • rear wheel – rebuilt with new hub, spoke nipples, seals and bearings
    • gallery below shows using a blow torch, gentle heat, and internal bearing puller, makes removing bearings a pice of cake
  • airbox stripped and cleaned – issues with captive nuts – for another day!
  • rear caliper rebuilt plus new piston – I use an airline on low pressure to pop pistons out
    • ktm 28mm piston was very expensive at £40, and my local dealer was out of stock, did some measurements and bought a brembo car caliper piston for £9, same part,  wtf?
  • new brembo ceramic rear pads
  • rear master cylinder rebuilt
  • new rear brake line fitted
  • new rear mudguard fitted
  • new rear light fitted
  • new side panels fitted
  • front forks rebuilt – new bushes and seals – picture shows using long socket and ratchet to hold the fork leg when doing the bottom bolt up
  • fork yokes blasted
  • headstock bearings replaced
  • new lockstop plate
  • new renthal fat bars
  • new throttle
  • new renthal grips
  • front wheel cleaned – new bearings and seals
  • front brake caliper rebuilt
  • stainless bleed nipples fitted to front and rear calipers
  • new stock dash bought and fitted
    • bargain deal, but kmh speedo, but sourcing a 60mm alternative is proving tricky
  • Polisport MMX headlight and spacing brackets fitted
  • ufo supermoto front mudguard fitted
    • junked the CCM cable guide and fitted a plastic ktm one. required spacers – plastic 10mm OD x 5mm h x 6mm ID
  • started cleaning carbs – wtf – how much chain do you need to use!