KTM – Fuel Pump Service

Fuel Pump’s filters state were an unknown, so I removed it from the tank to do a service on it using KTM’s pump overhaul kit – 61007090200.

The service is straight forward, remove pump from the tank (4 bolts) then dismantle by – gently – levering the two metal clamps outwards then wiggle the top plastic part upwards till it separates then undo the small screw for the wiring followed by two screws holding the metal clamps. The metal inlet on the plastic part does not need to be removed.

The kit has all new filters and o-rings, jsut swap them out one at a time. My pump had some dirt in it plus the filters definitely needed changing, the filter attached to the pump is a very tight fit so take care when fitting. Refitted with some new stainless bolts and a throughout clean of the tank with ACF50.



KTM – Clearing the Decks

So before getting into mods and improvements I wanted to remove lots of things from the bike – heated elements under the grips, front crash bars, rear crash bars/luggage rack, front spotlights, HID conversion, toolbox and awful stock arrow indicators.

Most of it was bolt on so easy to remove. The indicators I swapped for some KTM EXC ones that I had to hand, dead easy to swap over the only thing you require is the longer wiring out of the originals. Remove lense, bulb etc disconnect spade connectors and then do the same to the EXC version and swap the cables over then they just bolt on. On the rears the bottom of the plastic indicator moulding needed a trim to match the shape to the rear mudguard. They look SO much better than the originals.

Getting to the wiring under the rear rack is fiddly but you can always unbolt the rack and grab handles to make life easier, which I did and also blasted and repainted the grab handles, added new stainless bolts and removed the rack base plate.



There were lots of brackets that could do with a refresh so removed everything and then it was blast, paint, refit using stainless bolts – repeat.



Next step was to do a basic service and check things over and that’s when things started to go a bit wrong. I wanted to do an oil change, filters, plugs etc and to do that you have to move the fuel tanks slightly for better access and as soon as I did that the fuel house split (due to age) and I then discovered one of the fuel taps was stuck so ended up with fuel going everywhere whilst I got some pliers to closed the fuel tap.

At this stage I decided to drain the fuel and remove both tanks to make the whole job easier, I also removed the battery box and oil tank as I wanted to flush the latter through. When I removed the battery box I discovered the oil pipes are behind it which are in a perfect position to get covered in crap from the road and they were corroded and some of the wiring from the regulator just snapped off due to corrosion. I replaced both connectors with waterproof ones and used glue lined heat shrink to seal the cables.

Battery box was cleaned and its brackets blasted and repainted with new cage nuts fitted.

Standard practice – remove, inspect, clean, blast, paint, refit with new seals, bolts etc. I did the oil service at the same time changing the many filters.

I ditched the SAS kit to allow for better tuning, as I managed to get a powercommander 5 off eBay at a very good price, fitting blanking plates and dongles.If you’re removing the SAS equipment also remove the solenoid bracket off the back of the airbox otherwise you’ll cut your hand when removing the rear plug, ask how I know! Put the screws back in to plug the holes.

I sourced a new stainless allen bolt (M10 x 210mm from Accu – SSC-M10-210-A2) for the front engine mount and replaced all the bracket bolts with stainless allen bolts at the same time, as I figure its easier to carry a few allen keys than a socket set.

I blasted and repainted the oil pipes, note they take very similar but slightly different size o-rings and its very easy to mix them up, pinch an o-ring and have to start again.



The last two photos show a nice before and after comparison.



CB500X YSS Fork Kit

The YSS kit that I bought from Brook Suspension is very easy to fit. I have the factory centre stand kit which makes life easier, so I put the bike on the centre stand and lifted the front end using a ratchet strap from a beam in the garage.

Once supported remove the right fork leg after disconnecting the brake caliper, undo the fork cap (remove an per load first) the springs are so weak it will have very little resistance, pour out the fork oil, spring and spacer then drop in the emulator and spring, add new fork oil and refit.

I used a suitable long bolt to support the front wheel when removing the left fork leg as you have to remove the wheel spacer.

all in all took about 40mins and the difference is amazing, on the old forks I had the reload adjusters bottom and it was still too soft, touching the brake would havwe the front end diving. Now with zero preload its great.

The kit is good value and has good instructions.



I didn’t have a large enough allen key to undo the front wheel spindle, but found one of my flywheel removers was the right size when used with a suitable spanner.

CB500X VentureShield Fitting

Fitting VentureShield requires a bit of patience and as long as you’ve used plenty of water/soap mix you can lift and reposition decals as required.

Required items – venture shield kit, old hair dryer, brake cleaner, clean cloths.

Thoroughly clean the bike, then spray the water/soap mixture over the panel and float the decal into place, use the rubber squeegy to remove excess water.

In places with compound curves (two directions) you can use gentle heat from the hair dryer to assist with getting around the curves, you’ll see in one photo I removed a bubble by using the pressure and heat from my thumb.

Ventureshield is a great product and my bike is as new after 4 years.



CB500X

Haven’t previously document the CB, I bought it new after selling the GSXR and whilst recovering from more shoulder surgery in 2018.

As soon as I got it home I stripped the wheels and swingarm/shock out to ensure everything was greased correctly and then coated it ACF50.

The CB has been a great bike for most things, you’re never going to call it exciting but its great to commute on, comfortable on long motorway trips and there’s not much else to say other than the stock suspension is rubbish.

I appreciate the bike was built to a budget but at £6k it was a pretty good budget and Honda completely missed what people were looking for, NO ONE wants an A2 bike they wanted a mid sized bike that was fairly light with about 60 -70 HP. I’m pretty sure they could have done that easily but instead have ended up going down the same route KTM did with Adventure models after the 990 they’re all massive. The latest CB500X is now even bigger, wider and heavier, but still with 50HP 9on a good day). They should have restricted the bike through the ECU for A2 and offered a full power option fitted with CRF250L (slightly lowered) suspension and it would have been awesome. The 2019 model was better with a 19″ front wheel, but still not enough power or good enough suspension.

I did have plans to fit revalved CRF450 forks using conversion bearings and a CRF250L aluminium swingarm, you would not believe the weight of the stock one. Swingarm would need different bearings and spacers but would be doable. I bought a swingarm and crf yokes and measured it all up but lost interest.

I did several few mods – Black Widow full exhaust (poor fitment), K&N filter, folding levers, Evotech crash bungs and radiator guard, had a ventureshield paint protection kit designed by Invisible patterns, replace stacks of bolts for stainless ones, renthal bars (pitbike bend, bit narrower but about the right height) and grips, a litium ion battery, a wider and taller screen plus an adjustable extension as I found the wind noise still an issue and a 16 tooth front sprocket.

To sort the useless front suspension I fitted a YSS spring and emulator kit, which a huge difference.

RG – Bearings

Pulled the bearings from both wheels, swingarm and the headstock, you can buy genuine ones or go to a bearing shop and get identical or better ones for less money. I usually go for Koyo bearings.



RG – Rolling Chassis

With everything stripped I started blasting and painting the rolling chassis parts. Everything that was anodised or paint aluminium is being repainted silver, as much of it had surface corrosion and everything else satin black.

I sent the forks for rechroming and straingtening at Brook Suspension and have started rebuilding them with new seals and bushes from K-Tech suspension. I even dismantled the anti-dive modules as I wanted to see how they worked, historically everyone has said they’re shit and often blank them off. I’m putting them back so replaced all the old o-rings and I’d say from looking inside they’re a part that should be maintained as mine were seized due to the seals perishing.

I made a tool to hold the damper rod whilst tighening the bottom bolt put of a couple of nuts and a bolt. Had a grind a taper on the bottom nut for it to fit inside the damper rod.

New taper roller bearings have been fitted using the old bearing race as a drift to tap them in place.

Its also a good idea to have an o-ring set when doing any rebuilds.