Started work on the engine rebuild and hit a, temporary, brickwall as I’d forgotten about the snapped off bolt in the crankcase.
Tried penetrating oil, eze outs, left-hand drill, heat, nothing would shift it. Had to drill through the side of the case to get to it. Its now off with a friend to be tig welded, so that I can redrill and tap the hole.
Looking closely at the case the bolt hole has a small hole at the back which would let moisture in, so I’d recommended ensuring that the bolt in that hole has copper slip or similar on it.
Decided to do the crank bearing, as I’d borrowed the Suzuki tool to remove the bearing. Pretty straight forward job using tool and air gun, you could potentially make a tool out of a large socket and dremel out the shape required. I used the old bearing as a drift to fit the new one.
I also removed all the old bearings from the crankcases, using a bearing puller and a blow torch. In a few cases its easier to use the puller as a pusher.
There’s one unique bearing that has a rolled pin fitted, everything else you can get from a bearing supplier, but that one is dealer only and ridiculously expensive.
Some of the bearings also have a seal only on one side, so you have to buy sealed bearings and remove one seal, I’ll detail all the bearings when I get to fitting them.
I’ve used Koyo bearings throughout.
|Removing Crank Nut|
The above picture was me practicing on the wrecked original engine, just realised on the actual engine, that I’m using, when I split the crankcases the bearing came out with the crank without me having to remove the nut. Stupidly I’ve assembled the bearing and nut onto the crank already, when the bearing should be pressed into the case and the crank pulled into it.
Will disassembled and do it right.
Moral of this story – RTFM! ( read the f….. manual ) – sigh!