Gearbox Rebuild

Started rebuilding the gearbox with new 3rd and 5th gearsets. I’m doing those because 3rd is the normal weak point and my gears were outside tolerance and on the original engine 5th let go destroying it, prior to my ownership I should say, 5th was also outside tolerance.

Driveshaft rebuild is pretty straight forward, I’m also replacing all bushes, washers and circlips. The only thing to be aware of is there are two washers that fit together with offset splines, so they act as a basically circlip but thicker to take up slack.

To fit these you must push the circlip on the other side of 3rd gear further down the shaft so that you can locate the two interlocking washers first then slide the gear back and fit the circlip into its groove.

You also need to be aware of this for disassembly, otherwise there’s no way you’ll get it apart. Shown in the first gallery picture, 1 and 2 interlock and 3 needs moving in the direction of the arrow, past its locating groove then brought back.

Countershaft has caused a stopping point at the mo due to 2nd gear being pressed on. My gear puller wasn’t up to the job. So will call in another favour and borrow one.


Engine Bearings

The bearings are a little strange in this engine, as some are dual sealed bearings with one seal removed. Caught me out as I measured the bearings in the cases and then ordered them, only to find on removal there was a seal on the back face of three of them.

You can spot them in the photos as the bearings have an extra shoulder visable where the seal would normally sit. The 3rd bearing with seal on the back is the gearbox output shaft bearing.

and this is what happens if you don’t maintain your engine/oil levels…..

5th gear had let go on the original engine, so I’m replacing both 5th and 3rd (usual gearbox issue) gearsets. They were also under tolerance when measured.

All bearings are being replaced because –

  • A – you should
  • B – check video below

Crankcase Repair

Crank case has now been welded and after an hour or so with a Dremel and some files is nearly finished.

I used a sharpie to emulate engineer’s blue, makes it much easier to see what you’re removing. I levelled the weld to the crank case by filing and sanding across the case to spread the load and keep things level.

Engine Rebuild

Started work on the engine rebuild and hit a, temporary, brickwall as I’d forgotten about the snapped off bolt in the crankcase.

Tried penetrating oil, eze outs, left-hand drill, heat, nothing would shift it. Had to drill through the side of the case to get to it. Its now off with a friend to be tig welded, so that I can redrill and tap the hole.

Looking closely at the case the bolt hole has a small hole at the back which would let moisture in, so I’d recommended ensuring that the bolt in that hole has copper slip or similar on it.

Decided to do the crank bearing, as I’d borrowed the Suzuki tool to remove the bearing. Pretty straight forward job using tool and air gun, you could potentially make a tool out of a large socket and dremel out the shape required. I used the old bearing as a drift to fit the new one.

I also removed all the old bearings from the crankcases, using a bearing puller and a blow torch. In a few cases its easier to use the puller as a pusher.

There’s one unique bearing that has a rolled pin fitted, everything else you can get from a bearing supplier, but that one is dealer only and ridiculously expensive.

Some of the bearings also have a seal only on one side, so you have to buy sealed bearings and remove one seal, I’ll detail all the bearings when I get to fitting them.

I’ve used Koyo bearings throughout.

Removing Crank Nut

Hold up!

The above picture was me practicing on the wrecked original engine, just realised on the actual engine, that I’m using, when I split the crankcases the bearing came out with the crank without me having to remove the nut. Stupidly I’ve assembled the bearing and nut onto the crank already, when the bearing should be pressed into the case and the crank pulled into it.

Will disassembled and do it right.

Moral of this story – RTFM! ( read the f….. manual ) – sigh!

Rolling Chassis – 2

  • Fitted fork guards – factory ones were CR, so I bought ufo CR and they foul on the wheel as the CCM front wheel is offset to the right.
    • Dremel’d side off guard and fits fine
    • will buy some ktm ones to try
    • used ktm fork guard bolts
  • front master cylinder was very damaged, couldn’t find a replacement ccm one, turns out same MC is fitted to a yamaha yzf r125, just make sure you get the brembo one plus a m10 x 1 to m10 x 1.25 adapter
    • blasted MC lid and lever to match cleaned up clutch lever
  • factory foot pegs bolt on, bought some ktm pins and springs to try
    • pins too long, will trim and redrill split pin holes – pins are hardened so unable to  drill, will find shorter alternative
    • drill foot rest mounts and foot rests with 10mm drill – very carefully!
  • ordered parts to start on custom wiring loom
  • photoshop’d ccm loom diagram to give full length view, working on colour wiring diagram that I’ll check during loom build

Rolling Chassis

I’m currently getting the rolling chassis completed, as I have a small man-shed and there are currently parts everywhere.

So far –

  • frame and subframe have been cleaned, blasted and resprayed satin black
  • welded up the side stand hole and redrilled it, blasted then painted satin black
  • swinging arm cleaned, blasted and new bearings fitted
    • stock is single bearing and o-rings which is crap, I fitted 2 sealed bearings each side plus an extra seal on the exposed side
  • rear wheel – rebuilt with new hub, spoke nipples, seals and bearings
    • gallery below shows using a blow torch, gentle heat, and internal bearing puller, makes removing bearings a pice of cake
  • airbox stripped and cleaned – issues with captive nuts – for another day!
  • rear caliper rebuilt plus new piston – I use an airline on low pressure to pop pistons out
    • ktm 28mm piston was very expensive at £40, and my local dealer was out of stock, did some measurements and bought a brembo car caliper piston for £9, same part,  wtf?
  • new brembo ceramic rear pads
  • rear master cylinder rebuilt
  • new rear brake line fitted
  • new rear mudguard fitted
  • new rear light fitted
  • new side panels fitted
  • front forks rebuilt – new bushes and seals – picture shows using long socket and ratchet to hold the fork leg when doing the bottom bolt up
  • fork yokes blasted
  • headstock bearings replaced
  • new lockstop plate
  • new renthal fat bars
  • new throttle
  • new renthal grips
  • front wheel cleaned – new bearings and seals
  • front brake caliper rebuilt
  • stainless bleed nipples fitted to front and rear calipers
  • new stock dash bought and fitted
    • bargain deal, but kmh speedo, but sourcing a 60mm alternative is proving tricky
  • Polisport MMX headlight and spacing brackets fitted
  • ufo supermoto front mudguard fitted
    • junked the CCM cable guide and fitted a plastic ktm one. required spacers – plastic 10mm OD x 5mm h x 6mm ID
  • started cleaning carbs – wtf – how much chain do you need to use!

Issues so far

Everything I check is either broken or worn out, so have decided to strip the entire bike.

  • Plastics old/broken and in need of replacement
  • Speedo installation poor
  • All bearings shot
  • gearbox jumping out of gear
  • shock leaking
  • rear master cylinder leaking
  • rear wheel nipples seized and rusty
  • side stand loose
  • wiring – wires shorted, poor soldering, loom unwrapping
    • loom also butchered to fit Acewell speedo
  • engine oil leaks
  • chain and sprockets shot
  • rear wheel sprocket bolt holes filled with filler and oval
  • seized engine bolts
  • headstock bearings shot

> > Parts List < <

Haines Motorcycles


I’ve obtained most of my parts from Anthony at Haines. Anthony is one of the nicest, knowledgeable and friendly guys you’ll ever meet. He’ll always do his best on prices, but please take into account he’s a one man shop and you’re supporting small business (and they need it right now), plus his stock of parts is staggering!

Haines have moved to their new website which has the latest Fantic, CCM and Gas Gas spares (upto 2020 for Gas Gas) available –

PartItem Identified
forks seal kitAll-Balls Racing – 56 – 126
fork bushes kitAll-Balls Racing – 38 – 6053
taper roller headstock bearingsAll-Balls Racing – 22 – 1026
rear master cylinder seal kitAll-Balls Racing – 18 – 1079
rear caliper seal kitAll-Balls Racing – 18 – 3050
front caliper seal kitAll-Balls Racing – 18 – 3047
brembo front padscarbon ceramic 07BB04.CC
brembo rear padscarbon ceramic 07BB02.CC
braided hose kithel performance HBF0881
rear wheel spoke nipples8 gauge / 7.6mm barrel
Side Panelsufo YZ 125 / 250 (96-01) – remove air scoops
Fork Protectorsufo all CR / CRF – will try KTM for a better fit
rear mudguard/fenderufo YZ 125 / 250 (98-02) – cut required
led rear lightpolisport RSP LED 3.0
front forksWP 4357 MXMA – google for service manual
front wheel bearings2 – 60042RS
rear wheel bearings2 – 60042RS + 1 62042RS
swinging armmy choice –
2 – HK2016.2RS-MB bearings each side plus 1 SD20X26X4A-INA seal, time will tell if this works, but its better than stock
caliper bleed nipplesM10 x 1mm
fork cap o-ring*46810016 – 48 x 2mm
fork slider snap ring*43570099 – 53 x 2mm
ktm fork guard bolts59001092050
ktm foot rest springs54603041000
ktm foot rest pins54603044000 – too long poss KXF450
front master cylinderyamaha yzf r125 brembo – requires m10 x 1 to m10 x 1.25 adapter – hel performance H8153132C
Bearingsrefer to pictures in engine bearing section – all koyo – except 3
3suzuki 09262-22028
valve stem sealssuzuki 09289-05015
valve cover o-ring3mm x 65mm ID (I think standard is 2.5mm but trying to avoid leaks that people complain about)
tappet Adjuster tool Suzuki 09917-14910
inlet manifoldsSuzuki 13100-04f01 (comes with o-ring fitted)
carb float bowl sealSuzuki 13258-04f00
clutch arm shaft sealSuzuki 09286-1004
clutch pressure plate bearingKoyo 62002Z
airbox to carb clampssuzuki 09402-58208
starter bearingHK1512
starter bearing seal15x25x6mm
Note:where posible I buy all bearings, seals and o-rings from a bearing shop. Genuine versions are in many cases up to 10 times the price for the same product, I will only buy genuine if the part is bespoke, like the engine bearing with the spigot.
KTM indicator connectorsFemale housing – 02T-JWPF-VSLE-S
Male housing – 02R-JWPF-VSLE-S
Female contact – SWPR-001T-P025
Male contact – SWPT-001T-P025

* additonal parts to complete fork rebuild on top of All-Balls Racing kits

and so it starts!

I needed a project to keep me sane after selling the GSXR. Just didn’t realise that it was going to be a complete rebuild.

So what is a CCM 644 DS, well basically its a bitza. CCM built the frame and swinging arm then used parts from several different manufacturers, Brembo brakes, WP suspension, Suzuki XF650 engine, plastics from Yamaha and Honda. You could think of it as an uprated DR650. The DS part stands for dual sport, so many came with offroad and supermoto wheels.

Note: My bike is in supermoto trim, so some parts may vary.

Info on CCMs is a bit hit and miss, as was their build quality, so I’m documenting everything I use for future reference. You don’t have to use these parts, but it will give you a starting point. When searching for chassis parts I generally start looking at early 2000 ktm 250 exc stuff.