Needed to fabricate a new mount for the Deva speedo and the ignition switch, so I bought another original speedo mount and cut off the part that holds the speedo then made a new mount for the deva and ignition switch.

The original bracket is 2mm stainless steel, so ordered a piece off eBay and eye balled a design then cut and filed it to suit. Once I was happy with the shape I MIG welded it to the cut down original bracket and bent the ignition switch mount and speedo mount to suitable angles in my vice.

After a bit of research I found the Deva connectors and bought some new ones so that I could cut down the wiring to a suitable length, rather than just coil it up and stuff it in behind the headlight. I covered the ignition switch wiring in shrink tube.

Connectors are Sumitomo 6180-2321, 6187-2311 and 6187-3231 plus various japanese bullet connectors and some of those bloody tiny ktm style connectors (they’ll be replaced)

Just need to test fit the headlight and then once happy paint the bracket matt black.

Wiring Loom 5

Progress has been slow due to lock-down brain, just not been able to focus on anything. Loom is nearly complete, just need to finish splitting cables e.g. where one black suddenly needs 6 offshoots. Then I’ll hook up the battery and test circuits, there’s a bit of trial and error, as I’ve got different switches, lights and speedo but nothing major.

Found a new supplier for connectors – http://www.auto-click.co.uk/ and the part numbers for the ECU connectors are –

8-way – Furukawa FW-C-8F-B
6-way – Furukawa FW-C-6F-B
4-way – Furukawa FW-C-4F-B

3-way – Sumitomo 90980-10845

The only connectors I’ve been unable to source are the ones for the side stand solenoid and starter solenoid, so reusing the old ones with new connectors.

I also try to alternate connectors so that refitting items is easier, so female connector on top for one and bottom for another.

Loom will be wrapped in vinyl loom tape (takes some practice to get a smooth finish, but has no adhesive so will make any future repairs much easier) with heat shrink ends and branches will be covered in braided shealth and heat shrink.

Bought another speedo bracket, so that I can weld a mount for the speedo and ignition switch onto it.

Soz no photos this time, just CBA.

Oh yeah, also bought a 2010 Gas Gas EC250F to play with. More on that in its own blog, but only once the CCM is finished.

Wiring Loom 4

Again lots of waiting for parts to arrive. KTM indicator crimp connectors finally got here and are a nightmare to fit, even though I have the correct crimping pliers for them, also discoverd they’re designed for smaller gauge wire so had to order 0.5mm2 wire and redo the indicator loom.

Just for completeness I’m doing most the the loom in 1mm2 wire with the large neutral backbone and generator wiring in 2mm2 all thin wall cable plus new battery connections in 10mm2

Also discovered the light switch is toast, I thought I’d replace the outer sheath and had to open the switch to remove it, only find terrible connections inside, cut and soldered wires and you can’t dismantle the switch to fix it. So bought a KTM EXC lighting switch with the additional indicator switch. If I was doing this again, I’d buy a KTM or Husky indicator set that popup on eBay regularly when people sell them after selling the bike, unusally never used. I bought a kit anyway for the next project and it contains the lighting and indicator switch, 4 indicators, 2 mirrors, rear light and mount plus the entire wiring loom to fit it.

The new Daytona deva 01 speedo has arrived and looks like I’ll need to fab a new mount, I bent one of the brackets in the kit and it would fit easily but I want to have just one mount for the speedo, ignition switch and indicators, so I’ll make a template in cardboard then get cutting and filing. Only other issue with the daytona is the cabling is very long, so may have to trim and recrimp the cables, also why don’t manufacturers stagger the connections so they’re not all in the same place leaving you trying to find somewhere to hide the bird’s nest.

Bought U crimps to sort the junctions where wires split from one into multiple wires but can’t find any crimp pliers that they actually work with, at the mo they crimp on one side and crush the other. I found a reference to some pliers that supposedly work but they’re in the states and very expensive. So as there are only a few junctions I came up with my own solution and use a suitably sized uninsulated crimp with the end cut off and they work perfectly, just need to ensure you file the sharp edges down after cutting the end off. You carefully trim a piece of insulation off the cable you’re connection too using a sharp blade and then crimp the next cable to it.

On that topic I’d recommend anyone doing electrical work to invest in good quality pliers, I’ve tried many types and found knipex ones to be excellent, they’re not cheap – but buy quality – buy once.Also ensure you have a pair of precision cutters as it will ensure you cut cables squarely and allow you to trim cables after fitting crimps if the copper is slightly too long in the crimp Plus they cut cable ties properly and don’t leave that edge that cuts you even time you get too close.

Made several parts of the loom such as the headlight loom and relay loom.

Wiring Loom 3 – Fuse Box

It was all going so well, then I though what am I going to do about the fuse box? I removed one of the connectors to find its a pretty specific type. Ok surely you can buy a replacement fuse box?

NOPE – after some extensive googling (although I have now changed to duckduckgo) I found that the fuse box is used on many older suzukis – Good news, bad news is only as part of the whole loom, sigh! £565.92 for a XF650 loom wtf.

I did find a company in the US who have the fuse box available for just $10, but haven’t heard from them yet if they’ll ship to the UK.

Checking ebay I found one off a RF600 that had been cut off the loom and looked correct, it arrived today and is spot on. Issue number 2 the fuse box connectors, I was giving the ones from the ebay fuse box a clean to see if they could be reused and noticed TM2 stamped on the back.

Search time again – TM2 crimp connector – came up with Sumitomo, Female, Contact TM2 model – FA69-82404142-T, result!

Also the two diodes in the indicator circuit have also been identified as 1N4004.

Only other connector I’m having issues sourcing is the starter reply connector, can’t find one anywhere, so will probably reuse the original with new contacts.

So now just waiting for parts to arrive, then I can get the loom finished.

Wiring Loom 2

Loom is under way, but taking a long time. Stock loom seems poorly designed, so I’m making quite a few changes – shortening cables, relocating connectors, poor junctions of multiple wires and I’m removing the factory round and square CCM connectors and using standard format ones.

I’ve been splitting out each group of functions so that I can see where the wires go and how I can improve things.

Couple of interesting things discovered, there are several neutral junctions where multiple neutrals connect. On unwrapping the loom several fell off making me think this was junk from the factory, the whole neutral layout will be redesigned to more of a neutral bus with one main large wire connected from the battery to all the smaller ones.

Located the two diodes that are in the indicator circuit, I’ll will be replacing them with two new diodes.

Found stacks of corroded connections, rubbed through wires, which was the main reason for me making my own loom. Some of the gallery photos are out of focus, was losing the will to live at that stage.

I had some KTM EXC indicators knocking around the man shed, so have rewired them to the correct colours for the loom and drilled the rear mudguard to mount them. Also found some rubber grommets that I’ve used to pass the indicator cables through the black plastic ‘tat’ that the ecu is bolted to. More on the plastic ‘tat’ on another day, as I’m going to make a replacment that actually fits properly.

Managed to identify the correct KTM indicator connectors, so will be fitting those as soon as the female crimps are, which are on back order. Was amazed at what places are charging for these, bought them through RS Components for much less, I’ll add part numbers to the parts list.

Inlet Manifolds and Airbox – 2

Ok, once I’d attached the inlet manifolds, carbs, carb to airbox mainfold it soon became apparent that the carb to airbox mainolf had shrunk as it didn’t reach the airbox by about 5mm. Turns out this is fairly common, I’m guessing the manifold rubber isn’t UV stable?

So that left me with a problem of how to bridge the gap. You can’t move the airbox forward without modifying the frame brackets and slotting bolt holes, which I didn’t want to do. So I used some scrap 5mm aluminium plate, drilled two holes and bolted the manifold to it and then then cut and filed it to shape. All that time as an apprentice filing rough blocks of metal until they were parallel within thousands of an inch finally paid off.

Result was manifold now reaches and seals the airbox, BOOM!

Had to increase the amount of filter adapter sticking out to 15mm and tightening the jubilee clip on the filter was a nightmare as its under the subrame cross brace.

Wiring Loom

Loom on the bike was ruined, so staring a new loom from scratch. I found a wiring diagram online and have redrawn it in Illustrator in colour and am correcting the colours as I build the loom, already found two that didn’t match on the diagram.

Feel free to use, but at your own risk and check colours before doing any work. Wiring diagram updated with info on the hidden resistor that can cause so many starting issues.

Hidden 100 ohm resistor, snapped off so bike would have never started. FYI 3 pin ECU connector is actually 6 but only 3 wires used by CCM.

Having rebuilt the loom I’d recommend only using the wiring diagram to aid tracing wires, as CCM appeared to use different colour wires compared to their own diagram at times.

For double row connectors T + B indicate top and bottom, not surprisingly! I consider top to be the bit of the connector with the release on.

I’m also removing all the bespoke CCM mulitpin connectors and changing them for standard mini connectors. ALl parts and wiring sourced from Kojaycat (awesome for manufacturer specific connectors like Suzuki ECU ones) and Vehicle Wiring Products.

Wiring will also be made to the correct lengths, so there won’t be miles of it stuffed behind the headlight, need to make a decision on the speedo, as I’m going to have to wire that in. My plan as genuine CCM, but the only one I could get with a dash was in KMh, as the whole dash was originally missing. An Acewell Speedo had been fitted, but its too large to fit into the factory dash.

My plan was to 3D print a new dash surround, but that got ruined by Brexit as the potential import duty and tax now adds nearly 40% to the price, well done fuckwits of the UK!

I don’t really want a speedo cable and drive, so will probably change it for a Daytona DEVA, which I like the look of –


Just need to make sure there’s space to fit it behind the headlight, I can then adjust the loom to allow from proper connections.

I’m fitting all the electrical components, so that I can get the wire runs correct.

I’ve unwrapped the original loom so that I can trace all the cables from one end to another and make my copy.


Small post on the paints used. I like to use several colours to give then engine some dimension, they’re only all silver from the factory as its cheaper.

I’ve used VHT paints for all the engine parts –

VHT Engine Enamel

  • White primer – SP148
  • Nu-cast aluminium – SP995 or Nu-cast Iron – SP997
  • Gloss clear – SP145

So each part gets a 3 coat covering.

Only downside to this paint so far is the nozzles block affecting the spray pattern. So ensure you clean them off when you finish painting with some thinners.

Starter Motor

Starter looked like it had been under the sea. So stripped it to have a look, lots of carbon deposits and the shaft bearing was tired.

As per usual gentle heat on the end cap and tapped the bearing out using a socket. New one was fitted using a long M10 bolt, socket and some washers.

Blasted the ends and body and painting in silver and dark grey.

The two long bolts that hold the starter together are M5 and I couldn’t find any long enough and as the original holes in one end were 6mm I drilled and tapped the other end to M6.

Inlet Manifolds and Airbox

Inlet manifolds were out of shape so I purchased news ones and clamps. My bike was already fitted with a k&n filter so I purchased a new one as the the old one was deformed.

Cleaned up the airbox and when trying to fit the filter could see why the original was deformed, as it fouled on the box when trying to fit. So I set the filter adapter to protrude 10mm from the filter lip and trimmed the edge of the airbox to provide clearance.

On disassembly one of the captive nuts pulled out, so I re-glued it into place with 2 part glue by filling the hole with glue, then using a bolt tapped it into place with a mallet.

Also started cleaning up some of the scratches on the side of the airbox using various grades of wet and dry.