The shock bearing isn’t something you can pick up from a bearing shop, as its 25 x 15 x 12mm.
You can buy a KTM 65 sx or 640 LC4 bearing- K50180005 or search BUSHING KGW 1525 HD its fitted to many KTM models, currrently around £26 each , All Balls Racing kit – 29-5059 £22 each. However the KTM and All Balls seals are different to the CCM ones, the bearing bushes have the right bore (12mm) but are shorter, sigh! or eBay seller – bialko108 is selling a kit for £12.
I bought a KTM 65SX All Balls kit, as a starting point, and am waiting for the eBay kit. I didn’t realise the shock bushes in the 65SX kit are 10mm bore, so always go for the 250exc kit if you need bushes, I’ll work out what extra spacing is required once the eBay kit arrives.
If your bushes are fine then go for the cheapest option and maintain your shock, if the bearings seize there’s a good chance leverage will snap the shock end off!!
Appears I missed this whole section out, probably due to the pandemic kicking in. So as mentioned previous when I took the spring off the shock it proceeded to dump its oil and gas, sigh.
As with everything else on the bime it was covered in road debris and was in need of a full rebuild. This is a bit tricky as CCM didn’t provide any info on the shock, so after hours looking at paerts diagrams I decided the closest match is either a KTM 640LC shock or KTM 65, both use many identifcal parts to the CCM. This meant getting parts would be easier than expected.
I stripped the shock and then started sourcing parts, one important piece of info here is to get hold of a manual to help with disassembly – google WP 4614, which is close enough to guide you through the process, as I damaged a seal thinking it came out in one direction when it actually came out in the other.
It was also the seal inside the piston, which is not a part you can buy from KTM on its own, you have to buy the whole piston which in the UK was £105. I did try to order one but after weeks of waiting was told it had been superceeded and the new part was £150. So gave up briefly and worked on other things.
After more research I discovered the seal was an X-ring and has a PTFE backup ring to support it.
The photo below shows most of the parts and their part numbers.
I bought the piston inner bush from K-Tech suspension and found the X-Rings at barnwell.co.uk part no – QR113. The most difficult part to source was the PTFE backup ring, so in the end I found someone on eBay (Therma-tec) offering laser cut PTFE washers to custom sizes, so I had some made to my dimensions – 18.5 OD x 14.2 ID x 1.5 (all mm). All other parts came from my local KTM dealer.
If you decide to strip your shock ENSURE you depressurise it using the screw on the remote reservoir, very CAREFULLY!!
Ok , so rebuild didn’t quite go to plan followed the manual and the shock ended up pissing out oil, WTF!
Time for some RTFM slowly, ah light bulb! I’ve knocked up a quick diagram to explain, so anyone following this doesn’t make the same mistake. Its obvious when you see it, but not when you’re just following the manual.
Other than that issue, the instructions are pretty good and I fitted a schrader valve conversion to make gas filling easier. Also bought some of the factory tools to make life easier. They weren’t that expensive and save me having to make things.
T110S is the piston rod and T144S is the breather bottle, they cost approx £50 for the pair.
Other things to note –
Compression adjuster is held on with a small allen bolt and its a pita to get out, mine was stuck on the two o-rings, also make a note of how it comes apart to ensure it goes back together the same. Otherwise the adjuster won’t work properly.
Keep the shim stacks in order, I put a cable tie through each one.
The piston isn’t symmetrical, so make a note of the orientation when disassembling.
Have lots of clean cloths and brake cleaner handy.
So with the end slowly appearing in sight, it was time to start fitting the exhaust and bodywork to ensure I’d run the loom in the right places.
Had to re-route the starter cable behind the relays and relocate the earth cable to the engine as it interferred with the exhaust. I was visiting Anthony at Haines Motorcycles and whilst talking about bikes a customer dropped off a R30 644 for some work, this gave me a perfect opportunity to take some photos for reference showing cable runs etc. The conclusion I came to is CCM ‘winged it’ and cables were running everywhere, on the R30 I relocated one that was being burnt through by the exhaust.
After checking the R30 over I decided that some exhaust wrap would help protect the wiring and reduce the heat that the shock was exposed to. I removed the heat shields from the exhaust, sand blasted it, painted it in flat aluminium flame proof VHT paint then added the wrap. When the exhaust wrap arrived and I couldn’t get the stainless straps sufficiently tight, so swapped them out for slim stainless jubille clips.
I then discovered that fitting the exhaust is a bloody nightmare, starting from the front, the inner exhaust stud is too close to the frame, the middle mount doesn’t come anywhere close to the frame mounting point and at the rear I didn’t need the small drop link that connects to the strap that goes around the silencer. Side note when I looked at the R30 its exhaust didn’t even have a middle mount. Looking at the middle mount I think a small rubber anti-vibration mount with fit, so will buy one to try.
The other issue that came to light was I fitted the inidcators on the rear mudguard too far forward, so they wouldn’t fit with the side panels. I’ll buy another rear mudguard and do a write-up with cutting dimensions to make life easier in the future.
Whilst at Haines Motorcycles I took one of Anthony’s Fantic eBikes, an Issimo Fun, for a quick rip up the high street. What an absolute blast, first time on an eBike, 16mph up hill with little effort. You start pedalling and think nothing is happening then the motor kicks in, I wheel span up the ramp out of the shop.
One of my friends was also collecting his new Fantic XEF250 Enduro Race, it might be a WR250F in different clothes, but it looks amazing and will be an interesting change from his Gas Gas EC250 two-stroke.
So progress has been slow as not been ‘feeling it’. In order to sort the dash warning lights I’ve had to redo some of the loom as the stock loom didn’t have the ncessary wires to provide all the feeds, so I’ll have to unwrap some of the loom as it needs a permenant power feed.
Also had some issues with wiring the KTM lighting switch as the original had internal tracks to provide multiple power feeds and connections between circuits. Getting the rear light to work when the headlight was on proved to be tricky, as both the full and dipped beam had their own circuits, so I tapped into both to feed the rear light, problem was when you tap both circuits you basically jojn them together resulting in full and dip beam being on together. Fixed the issue by adding a diode to each circuit tap wire to stop the power flowing to the other circuit.
When testing the neutral light I discovered there wasn’t enough clearance between the huge footrest mount and the gear selector shaft to allow me to fit the gear shifter, so I filed the edge to provide enough clearance.
Finally have all electrical items working, just need to get the engine to a position where I can start it so that I can finialise the rev counter wiring. This required me to finish the oil system and the exhaust.
Oil system looks good, I managed to get an uprated oil cooler from Anthony at Haines. Exhaust is another deal as I discovered the brackets were held on with jubilee clips and it was very rusty. Sand blaster is currently out of use due to me upgrading the dust extraction system, but hopefully should have the last part by next week.
Needed to fabricate a new mount for the Deva speedo and the ignition switch, so I bought another original speedo mount and cut off the part that holds the speedo then made a new mount for the deva and ignition switch.
The original bracket is 2mm stainless steel, so ordered a piece off eBay and eye balled a design then cut and filed it to suit. Once I was happy with the shape I MIG welded it to the cut down original bracket and bent the ignition switch mount and speedo mount to suitable angles in my vice.
After a bit of research I found the Deva connectors and bought some new ones so that I could cut down the wiring to a suitable length, rather than just coil it up and stuff it in behind the headlight. I covered the ignition switch wiring in shrink tube.
Connectors are Sumitomo 6180-2321, 6187-2311 and 6187-3231 plus various japanese bullet connectors and some of those bloody tiny ktm style connectors (they’ll be replaced)
Just need to test fit the headlight and then once happy paint the bracket matt black.
Progress has been slow due to lock-down brain, just not been able to focus on anything. Loom is nearly complete, just need to finish splitting cables e.g. where one black suddenly needs 6 offshoots. Then I’ll hook up the battery and test circuits, there’s a bit of trial and error, as I’ve got different switches, lights and speedo but nothing major.
Found a new supplier for connectors – http://www.auto-click.co.uk/ and the part numbers for the ECU connectors are –
The only connectors I’ve been unable to source are the ones for the side stand solenoid and starter solenoid, so reusing the old ones with new connectors.
I also try to alternate connectors so that refitting items is easier, so female connector on top for one and bottom for another.
Loom will be wrapped in vinyl loom tape (takes some practice to get a smooth finish, but has no adhesive so will make any future repairs much easier) with heat shrink ends and branches will be covered in braided shealth and heat shrink.
Bought another speedo bracket, so that I can weld a mount for the speedo and ignition switch onto it.
Soz no photos this time, just CBA.
Oh yeah, also bought a 2010 Gas Gas EC250F to play with. More on that in its own blog, but only once the CCM is finished.
Again lots of waiting for parts to arrive. KTM indicator crimp connectors finally got here and are a nightmare to fit, even though I have the correct crimping pliers for them, also discoverd they’re designed for smaller gauge wire so had to order 0.5mm2 wire and redo the indicator loom.
Just for completeness I’m doing most the the loom in 1mm2 wire with the large neutral backbone and generator wiring in 2mm2 all thin wall cable plus new battery connections in 10mm2
Also discovered the light switch is toast, I thought I’d replace the outer sheath and had to open the switch to remove it, only find terrible connections inside, cut and soldered wires and you can’t dismantle the switch to fix it. So bought a KTM EXC lighting switch with the additional indicator switch. If I was doing this again, I’d buy a KTM or Husky indicator set that popup on eBay regularly when people sell them after selling the bike, unusally never used. I bought a kit anyway for the next project and it contains the lighting and indicator switch, 4 indicators, 2 mirrors, rear light and mount plus the entire wiring loom to fit it.
The new Daytona deva 01 speedo has arrived and looks like I’ll need to fab a new mount, I bent one of the brackets in the kit and it would fit easily but I want to have just one mount for the speedo, ignition switch and indicators, so I’ll make a template in cardboard then get cutting and filing. Only other issue with the daytona is the cabling is very long, so may have to trim and recrimp the cables, also why don’t manufacturers stagger the connections so they’re not all in the same place leaving you trying to find somewhere to hide the bird’s nest.
Bought U crimps to sort the junctions where wires split from one into multiple wires but can’t find any crimp pliers that they actually work with, at the mo they crimp on one side and crush the other. I found a reference to some pliers that supposedly work but they’re in the states and very expensive. So as there are only a few junctions I came up with my own solution and use a suitably sized uninsulated crimp with the end cut off and they work perfectly, just need to ensure you file the sharp edges down after cutting the end off. You carefully trim a piece of insulation off the cable you’re connection too using a sharp blade and then crimp the next cable to it.
On that topic I’d recommend anyone doing electrical work to invest in good quality pliers, I’ve tried many types and found knipex ones to be excellent, they’re not cheap – but buy quality – buy once.Also ensure you have a pair of precision cutters as it will ensure you cut cables squarely and allow you to trim cables after fitting crimps if the copper is slightly too long in the crimp Plus they cut cable ties properly and don’t leave that edge that cuts you even time you get too close.
Made several parts of the loom such as the headlight loom and relay loom.
It was all going so well, then I though what am I going to do about the fuse box? I removed one of the connectors to find its a pretty specific type. Ok surely you can buy a replacement fuse box?
NOPE – after some extensive googling (although I have now changed to duckduckgo) I found that the fuse box is used on many older suzukis – Good news, bad news is only as part of the whole loom, sigh! £565.92 for a XF650 loom wtf.
I did find a company in the US who have the fuse box available for just $10, but haven’t heard from them yet if they’ll ship to the UK.
Checking ebay I found one off a RF600 that had been cut off the loom and looked correct, it arrived today and is spot on. Issue number 2 the fuse box connectors, I was giving the ones from the ebay fuse box a clean to see if they could be reused and noticed TM2 stamped on the back.
Search time again – TM2 crimp connector – came up with Sumitomo, Female, Contact TM2 model – FA69-82404142-T, result!
Also the two diodes in the indicator circuit have also been identified as 1N4004.
Only other connector I’m having issues sourcing is the starter reply connector, can’t find one anywhere, so will probably reuse the original with new contacts.
So now just waiting for parts to arrive, then I can get the loom finished.
Loom is under way, but taking a long time. Stock loom seems poorly designed, so I’m making quite a few changes – shortening cables, relocating connectors, poor junctions of multiple wires and I’m removing the factory round and square CCM connectors and using standard format ones.
I’ve been splitting out each group of functions so that I can see where the wires go and how I can improve things.
Couple of interesting things discovered, there are several neutral junctions where multiple neutrals connect. On unwrapping the loom several fell off making me think this was junk from the factory, the whole neutral layout will be redesigned to more of a neutral bus with one main large wire connected from the battery to all the smaller ones.
Located the two diodes that are in the indicator circuit, I’ll will be replacing them with two new diodes.
Found stacks of corroded connections, rubbed through wires, which was the main reason for me making my own loom. Some of the gallery photos are out of focus, was losing the will to live at that stage.
I had some KTM EXC indicators knocking around the man shed, so have rewired them to the correct colours for the loom and drilled the rear mudguard to mount them. Also found some rubber grommets that I’ve used to pass the indicator cables through the black plastic ‘tat’ that the ecu is bolted to. More on the plastic ‘tat’ on another day, as I’m going to make a replacment that actually fits properly.
Managed to identify the correct KTM indicator connectors, so will be fitting those as soon as the female crimps are, which are on back order. Was amazed at what places are charging for these, bought them through RS Components for much less, I’ll add part numbers to the parts list.
Ok, once I’d attached the inlet manifolds, carbs, carb to airbox mainfold it soon became apparent that the carb to airbox mainolf had shrunk as it didn’t reach the airbox by about 5mm. Turns out this is fairly common, I’m guessing the manifold rubber isn’t UV stable?
So that left me with a problem of how to bridge the gap. You can’t move the airbox forward without modifying the frame brackets and slotting bolt holes, which I didn’t want to do. So I used some scrap 5mm aluminium plate, drilled two holes and bolted the manifold to it and then then cut and filed it to shape. All that time as an apprentice filing rough blocks of metal until they were parallel within thousands of an inch finally paid off.
Result was manifold now reaches and seals the airbox, BOOM!
Had to increase the amount of filter adapter sticking out to 15mm and tightening the jubilee clip on the filter was a nightmare as its under the subrame cross brace.